News alert: Temasek has moved. And not only has it moved, it’s had a glow-up, with white cloths replacing the batik beneath glass tabletops, and an array of orb-like lights casting a warm glow over a busy crowd of office workers and couples alike, all here for the same thing: comforting, homestyle Singaporean, just how they remember it.

That translates to some of our city’s best Hainanese chicken rice, the flesh supple, the rice garlicky and sweetly scented, the sambal humming. Gado-gado could be fresher, but the laksa singapura is right on, the surface dotted with oil droplets, hiding tender chicken and bouncy prawns in its depths, fried bean curd drinking up the aromatic broth.

Nasi lemak is a classic, rendang has a fresh hit of makrut lime, and the open kitchen is all energy. Cool off with colourful ice kacang and salute one of the originals and the best, still at it.

Good to know: Can’t finish all that bak kuh teh or chicken rice? Takeaway containers are available for a dollar a pop.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.