It’s all about nurturing at this Bondi mainstay. The menu is short and hyper-seasonal. The service is lively, and the art-filled room (is that an actual Guy Buffet in the corner?) is perennially filled with the clatter of happy diners. Start with Port Lincoln calamari, crisp-fried in its own ink, to be dipped in a piquant chilli aioli.

Quail legs are poached in their own broth and served with pork and brown-rice dumplings; Sommerlad chicken is quartered and roasted until golden, accompanied by bread sauce and roast potato, turnip tops and cabbage. On another day you might settle in with pan-fried gnocchi, mushrooms and shavings of sheep’s milk cheese.

A little side of greens would be more welcome than the chocolate trifle by the time mains are cleared, but nevertheless, Sean Moran’s cooking remains food for the soul.

Good to know: Forever one of the best places to bring your own bottles.

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