The four kitchens at Woodcut set the stage for a theatrical performance. On cue, fire, steam, smoke and ice are applied to superlative produce, from clover-fed O’Connor beef to Skull Island tiger prawns.

It’s easy to pick the diva dishes: lipstick peppers in red-pepper oil, brick chicken with barberries and grapes, and a mighty hasselback potato wallowing in sweet onion cream.

The steaks – expertly handled by chef-owner Ross Lusted and executive chef David Leyva – are fired over a charcoal grill, but they’re a slow burn, taking 40-60 minutes to hit the table.

The wagyu skewers with a heady rose harissa are every bit as good, and free you up to order the skillet-baked halloumi with figs and wild honey.

Couples are more likely to be seated at one of the kitchen counters – speak up if you’d prefer a table.

Good to know: The broad terrace is dreamy in summer, and the dazzling high-energy room gets a bit more Las Vegas after 9pm.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.