It’s one of the more unassuming doorways gracing the dining strip of this seaside town, but it’s one of the most hectic. Locals have embraced Lost Cat like, well, a prodigal kitten. Indeed chef Zac Nicholson (ex-Rockpool Bar & Grill) is a returning son of Warrnambool, and he understands how locals like to eat: no frippery, just amped-up flavours cleverly applied to produce grown nearby.

The concise menu changes weekly. Often there’ll be local snapper, perhaps a tartare sharpened by orange and white soy dressing. Otway Ranges pork belly is a favourite, maybe served with kimchi-laced coleslaw and doused in gochujang sauce. Steak - another mainstay - always comes with a flavour-bomb butter on top, chips on the side.

Customers leave lemons in the hope chef will make his impossibly fluffy lemon meringue pie. This is country dining to make city restaurants take note.

Must-order: House-made focaccia. This textbook, balloony wedge of carb has to be on the table somewhere.

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