Tucked down a dead-end street off the main drag, this unpretentious former tearoom is a favourite with the locals who cosy up at the 10-seat fireside bar. Two homey dining areas are for those ready to dive into the chef’s four-course menu, a surprise until you’re seated.

Perhaps you’ll begin with a fancy curried egg sandwich with pops of salmon roe, or glistening char siu pork belly topped with pickled cucumber. Next, expect a vegetable-focused dish humming in tune with the season, such as creamed celeriac gussied up with smoked eel consomme, followed by richly flavoured roast cannon of lamb and chicken mousse wrapped in lamb belly.

Tiny cubes of steamed apple are blanketed in whipped cream infused with vanilla, parsnip and nutmeg. Friendly, adroit staff may be stretched, but relax with a local wine and enjoy the extra digestion time.

Good to know: The “secret” bar menu for walk-ins only includes a la carte snacks and a pub main such as schnitzel.

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