It’s always golden hour here, above St Kilda Beach. The sun glows across the bay, casting shadows on white linen-draped tables, as couples canoodle over chablis by beachfront windows. Beneath spectacular modern chandeliers, impeccably skilled staff cruise the blonde-wood dining room, anticipating every whim. Start with a standout potato cake – crisp, puffy and piqued with saltbush and vinegar.

Move on to poached calamari ribbons tumbled with lovage oil and lemonade-pickled celtuce. Rock flathead fillet comes crisply crumbed, atop squash and confetti-like sauce gribiche speckled with salmon caviar. Land-based offerings might include a tender saddle of Gundagai lamb, rich and flattered with sweetbreads and Italian chicory.

“Stokey” date pudding, a benchmark dessert, is elevated with butterscotch, chocolate and a gold-dusted stuffed date. First opened in 1990, and rebuilt after a 2014 fire, Stokehouse remains a beloved destination with good reason.

Good to know: Stokehouse fish ‘n’ chips, served only in the bar, are considered a classic.

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