Scopri feels like your favourite uncle – jovial, generous, and charmingly old-fashioned. The split-level dining room is home to career waiters who offer sage advice and genuine cordiality. They adeptly cater to every guest, whether it’s using Google Translate for a Chinese-speaking couple grappling with the Italian-heavy specials, or meticulously dividing agnolotti del plin – pasta parcels crammed with rabbit, pork and veal in a plate-licking butter sauce – between two.

Regulars get their plump, simply cooked flounder expertly deboned, accompanied by friendly banter about vintages or victories. While capretto rustico – bone-in goat braised in white wine – is unshakeable, the kitchen’s creative spirit shines in the long list of specials.

If you hear the words “octopus soppressata”, lock it in. Tissue-thin slices of tentacle cover the plate like mosaic, dotted and dashed with radish and a citrusy vinaigrette: another classic in the making.

Good to know: Bookend a night with cocktails or digestifs at sister venue Bar Olo, a few doors along.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.