Celebrating a casino win? Impressing clients? Marking a milestone birthday? Come on down to this 180-seat bovine temple, savouring the charry aroma as you’re led to a white-clothed table. The mammoth menu can be daunting – ditto the 100-page wine list – but savvy waitstaff are eager to help.

Wood-fire grilling and seafood are strong points: calamari, for example, cooks over flames and pairs happily with spicy tamarind sambal. Crisp-skinned grilled rock flathead, draped in salty, translucent guanciale, rests on silky celeriac mash. The real star, of course, is beef, sourced from some of Australia’s best producers, dry-aged for a month or so and butchered in-house.

Cape Grim scotch fillet is perfectly seasoned and rested, one of 17 steak options, all served with just a wedge of lemon. Continue the theme with charry apple tarte tatin and smoky vanilla ice-cream.

Good to know: The lunchtime bar menu includes wagyu burgers, and you can take them away.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.