It’s guindilla and calamari sandwiches all round for the business-casual bros lunching at a long table near the vintage drink poster. The couple by the window that frames the Supreme Court’s dome coo over a saffron-bright paella crowned by golden jointed spatchcock.

Everywhere in this room of bottle-green leather and chequerboard tiles, phones hover above the tapa that turbocharged co-founder Frank Camorra’s early career: a whisper-thin wafer capped with a Cantabrian anchovy and smoky tomato sorbet. Yes, MoVida’s greatest hits still strike all the right notes, but there’s more.

Piquillo peppers might come roasted and stuffed with diced autumn vegetables. Blush-pink coal-roasted lamb loin is served in a deeply satisfying broth with morsels of jamon. Add a zesty godello from the Iberian-leaning wines and a madeira to chase bitter-sweet creme caramel, and a siesta may be in order.

Good to know: High-top tables by the kitchen have the best terrace outlook.

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