When a beloved neighbourhood bistro ups stumps after 13 years to double down around the corner, it must be doing something right. Two years on, Joe Vargetto’s much expanded restaurant – complete with tan leather banquettes, terrazzo floor, marble-topped tables and colourful artwork – is indeed doing most things right.

A single meatball snack is several mouthfuls of slow-cooked deliciousness atop a rich tomato sugo. The always-popular veal cutlet is crisp-crumbed and pink-tinged, with an earthy, umami boost from creamy porcini sauce and chestnut mushrooms.

It would be a mistake to skip house-made pasta: perhaps saffron-hued cavatelli, with king prawns and tender octopus, its small shell shape a clever trap for the bold red capsicum sauce. Waitstaff can be inexperienced, but they’ll happily scoop you a serve of the signature old-school tiramisu at the table.

Good to know: The adjacent Bianchetto cocktail bar, open Wednesday to Saturday, serves snacks and the full Mister Bianco menu.

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