Matsu may have tripled its capacity after moving a few hundred metres earlier this year, but the magic, dare and easy charm of chef-owner Hansol Lee remain. Most courses of his kaiseki lean into tradition: a silken scallop chawanmushi, kingfish sashimi kissed with gentle smoke from a rice straw fire. But Lee shines even brighter when he veers into unexpected territory.

Take the Tasmanian abalone, steamed and sliced, served atop thin Inaniwa udon noodles in a cream, dashi and pine nut sauce. Lavishly crowned with grated black truffle, it’s both luxurious and deeply comforting. Koji-marinated wagyu is meltingly tender, its richness cut with bright yuzu kosho and a punchy red miso and gochujang sauce. Every element, from the precise plating to the thoughtful selection of sake and Japanese ceramics, reflects a deep reverence for detail.

Good to know: Bookings are released every second Thursday.

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