An L-shaped space with soaring windows that let in the city – stunning. Portuguese food and drink – fascinating. A modern take by a well-travelled restaurateur couple – thrilling. Ross and Sunny Lusted push the food of Portugal – itself a kind of alchemy of Europe, Africa, the Middle East and the Americas – toward something new and wonderful at their first Melbourne venture.

Picked spanner crab is piled atop a small savoury tart reminiscent of pastel de nata. The sweetness of raw garfish, folded into firm ripples along a skewer, is tempered by apple and vinho verde vinegar. Seafood, whether octopus or kingfish, is cooked expertly over fire.

Deep crimson crescents of quince, the restaurant’s namesake, are the partner rich, flame-licked pork loin seeks. The fruit will appear again later, hiding among sheep’s milk yoghurt and curls of guava – a dish as refreshing as this whole enterprise.

Must-order: Arroz de marisco – rice with grilled, poached and cured seafood – is a pricey but delicious dish to share among two or three.

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