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13.5/20Critics' Pick

EatAlley

Updated ,first published

Nasi lemak, braised duck, dry wonton mee with barbecue pork and chicken feet.
1 / 6Nasi lemak, braised duck, dry wonton mee with barbecue pork and chicken feet. Supplied
Eat Alley features 10 well-known stalls from Malaysia.
2 / 6Eat Alley features 10 well-known stalls from Malaysia.Alex Coppel
Curry laksa is based on a recipe from a now-closed Kuala Lumpur hawker stall.
3 / 6Curry laksa is based on a recipe from a now-closed Kuala Lumpur hawker stall.Supplied
Pineapple bun toast with butter (left) and kaya butter toast (right) with Hainan-style kopi.
4 / 6Pineapple bun toast with butter (left) and kaya butter toast (right) with Hainan-style kopi.Alex Coppel
There are 10 stalls available.
5 / 6There are 10 stalls available.Supplied
Hainanese claypot coffee.
6 / 6Hainanese claypot coffee.Kaikai Xu
13.5/20Critics' Pick

EatAlley

Malaysian$

Ten hawker stalls, decades of tradition, one location.

You want braised duck, he wants the herbal brothiness of bak kut teh and someone else is keen on nasi lemak. At this 21st-century vision of a hawker market, it’s no problem. Ten of Malaysia’s exemplars of street-food have been tapped for the shiny new eatery in QV. What it lacks in street-eating thrills, it makes up for with convenience and cleanliness. Then there’s the careful cooking.

Fat rendered from Hainanese chicken is used to cook the glossy, rich rice that accompanies it. Pork stock splashed into hokkien mee is different from that used for another trader’s pork noodle soup. Nasi lemak is spicy, comforting and refreshing, but it’s especially satisfying for its rempah: a coconutty, lemongrassy, gingery spice paste that’s slowly cooked to a dark rubble. It’s easy to see why families, older couples nostalgic for home and solo diners are queuing out the door.

Good to know: QR-code ordering is via a menu that aggregates all 10 stalls’ dishes, making for a smoother experience.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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