Melbourne’s Mexican menus can often feel copy-paste, but not Maiz y Cacao’s. A high-ceilinged space features a vibrant peacock mural and diptych depicting the pre-Hispanic gods of its two namesakes – colour and art that’s matched on the plate.

Maiz – corn to English-speakers – is the cornerstone of the cuisine, and here it’s showcased well beyond the tortilla (although lamb barbacoa tacos deserve a look). For sopes, a disc of smoked masa dough is deep-fried and loaded with beans and sweet pork cochinita.

As for cacao, it’s woven into a deeply bittersweet Oaxacan mole surrounding steamed cornmeal that’s topped with shredded chicken and toasted sesame. A veritable tower of prawns, mussels and octopus make up the aguachile; the seafood’s spicy cure, heady with oregano, is liquid gold. A chorizo and potato pambazo sandwich, soaked with brick-red guajillo sauce, is a beer’s best friend.

Good to know: A Mexico-meets-Melbourne brunch menu is served until 3pm daily.

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