From the moment the bullion-heavy wine list hits your table, joined by an A3-sized menu emblazoned with illustrations of glamorous women, you know it’s time to sit back and let Chris Lucas take the wheel. Sinatra fills the glossy black bistro-styled room where waitstaff flit in white shirts and black bow ties.

Champagne flows while oysters beckon from their icy throne on an enormous raw bar. You bet there’s a souffle – funky with comte cheese – and chicken liver pâté, fashioned into a smooth rhomboid. Steaks rule mains, from eye fillet tartare to the old-school Tournedos Rossini, dressed decadently with foie gras and truffle-enriched madeira.

Caviar gets its own mini menu, and chocolate mousse served a la gueridon gets tables filming. Swan up to La Terrasse for all-weather fun, or descend to Le Club for light bites, live music and low-lit high jinks.

Best for: Throwing caution (and credit cards) to the wind for a full-tilt night of fun.

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