The Penang spelling – char koay teow, not “kway” – is your first clue Lulu’s isn’t shy about its origins. This perennially busy spot is a riot of orange walls, multilingual banter among diners and posters praising wok hei. The CKT, served on aromatic banana leaf, is a smoky, spicy stage for egg, crisp pork lard, lap cheong and your pick of sea creatures.

Crown the noodles with a decadent fried duck egg and let that molten yolk drip where it pleases. Char mee is drier and punchier, and the menu now includes even more hawker faves including prawn-forward Hokkien noodle soup.

Service is brisk without being brusque, and portions are generous – just look at the takeaway boxes stacked in the corner. Partial to Malaysian sweets? QR codes handily beam into sister joint next door, Pandan, for a glorious double-header.

Best for: A quick, tasty and satisfyingly mouth-tingling Malaysian lunch. (Bonus: there’s now a branch at Chadstone too.)

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.