Evoking a gentlemanly sporting club, this elegant space layers vintage cricket memorabilia with blockprint lamps from Jaipur and elegant folding chairs. Old games play on a TV while you ponder a marigold martini or a spice-friendly wine by Australian-Indian winemakers Avani.

Chef Mischa Tropp’s style is versatile and savvy, based on skills learnt on his subcontinental excursions and anchored in Antipodean freedoms. Salty, smoky kingfish hums with lime, green chilli, zippy mustard oil and fresh herbs in macher bhorta. Pea-stuffed tandoor comes with expert char, one of many examples of the kitchen’s prowess with charcoal and tandoor.

Kosha mangsho, a West Bengali goat curry, displays deft layering of fat and spice, and saag paneer is a glossy, thick paragon. Block out the jacked-up excess of the casino and you’ll see this restaurant for the watershed it is.

Good to know: Kolkata is the capital of West Bengal and the menu represents that state’s cuisine alongside more mainstream crowdpleasers.

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