A map helpfully wayfinds which part of India dishes come from, but there’s no way to prepare you for the bold plating of Dudhiya kebabs, crumbed cubes of paneer as large as they are fluffy. Kahaani keeps the lights low and the music unobtrusively ambient, all the better to train your senses on its far-reaching showcase of cornerstone dishes from Rajasthan, Chennai, Kolkata and beyond.

Delhi’s favourite street-eat, papdi chaat, is a rugged landscape of fried kale leaves, yoghurt and tamarind-date chutney. Copper and silver pots dot the table, some filled with creamy yellow dhal and an iridescent red slick of chilli-infused ghee, others holding fine strands of basmati rice that put all other examples to shame.

Cocktails feature fennel and are graced with flowers, and dessert is another striking vision: a disc of deep-purple strands of sweetened carrot scattered with pea flowers.

Must-order: Gajar halwa – the dessert of shredded purple carrots, cardamom and milk – that’s cooked in iron pans and has a pleasant bouncy texture.

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