Ho Liao is one of Sydney chef Junda Khoo’s trio of Melbourne eateries, all housed in his ambitious three-storey Malaysian mega-venue in the CBD. As the more casual sibling to mid-level fine diner Ho Jiak, top-floor Ho Liao is pitched both as a day-to-night restaurant that’s “redefining traditions” and an homage to the food of Khoo’s grandmother.

Labels aside, what it all adds up to is a broad, likeable menu of Malaysian staples – some textbook, others less so. Hainanese chicken sensibly – and satisfyingly – stays true to the classic. Half a crisp-skinned Aurum duck, simply roasted, is a mind-boggling bargain.

Blue pea flower-tinged sago coconut pudding is a refreshing reminder of tropical holidays. The well-lit, expansive dining room is abundantly staffed by a caring, smiling and attentive crew. If this is new-style Malaysian, we’ll have some more, please.

Good to know: A line-up of $15 dishes, from nasi lemak to laksa, make this an affordable dinner or lunch spot, too.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.