Is this the smallest restaurant in Victoria? The tiny nook was once a staff room at Cavanaugh’s Whisky and Ale House, but a harebrained scheme between the owners and chef Joel Alderdice – a Healesville local who worked at Bar Liberty and TarraWarra Estate before this – transformed the space into a four-seat tasting menu restaurant.

The most creative moments come early, with snacks such as sticky macadamia jam with apple, and halloumi with whisky honey. Rosy duck is draped over radicchio; thinly sliced potato and sweet potato are tempura fried and given a shake of house-made chicken salt.

The main dish is usually the best Australian wagyu Alderdice can source, simply cooked and sliced beautifully. With its counter seating facing the chef and the kitchen, it feels more like a small dinner party than eating in a restaurant. Are you ready?

Good to know: You should build in time for a drink beforehand at Cavanaugh’s, which is one of the better cocktail bars outside the city.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.