Melbourne is no stranger to the wine bar, but this self-described “wine house” raises the stakes with its immaculate, timber-lined dining room, a drinks list the size of War and Peace, and a Coravin system unlocking the higher player levels for everyday drinkers.

A band of sommeliers share their enthusiasm across 125 pages of international liquid excellence, but equally enthralling is the menu that underwrites this Bacchanalian take on fine dining. Contemporary but with obvious classical roots, dishes are just as comfortable with the Old World as the new wave.

A delicate tart of smoked eel is married with the flutter of fresh horseradish, flame-charred calamari goes extra gutsy with fiery ’nduja sauce, and wagyu tri-tip lolls in Cafe de Paris butter. Glowing warmly at the end of a city laneway, it’s a must-know spot for those expanding their eating and drinking horizons.

Good to know: Regular masterclasses spotlight different grape varieties and regions.

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