Even in Hong Kong, the home of dim sum, there’s a decline in dumpling masters devoting themselves to the art of yum cha. Let’s be grateful, then, for this restaurant, powered by a belief in honouring legacy, in this case that of Wing Kwong “Chef” Wong, a dim sum master who died last year, aged 70, after more than 50 years filling and folding dumplings. Wong’s daughter, Doris, now carries the torch.

Diners mark up the one-page order sheet with their choice of dumplings (all under $4; their folding precise and the fillings pert) through to XO fried rice and exemplary egg tarts. The rich meat of the house invention, coriander and roast duck, is brightened with prawn, while roast pork cheung fun are silky but properly chewy.

No shortcuts, no compromises. This is a modest restaurant, but there’s nowhere in Melbourne making dumplings with more integrity. What a gift.

Good to know: You can grab some of the excellent dumplings and fluffy pork buns from the freezer to take home.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.