It opened during COVID, lost its founding chef and is surrounded by construction sites, but Aru hasn’t skipped a beat. Inside, Asian and Australian flavours dance in a raging hearth. Silky eggplant and crisp chickpeas lift with chilli crisp and soften under creamy ricotta.

Glossy beef short-rib finds depth in rendang paste and satiny coconut puree. The dry-aged duck is still a destination dish, so too palm sugar-glazed “forbidden” rice sourdough, served with spiced cultured butter that’s so indulgent it should carry a warning. Smooth service runs all the way from the stunning bar right through to the leather banquettes and inky shadows that lie beyond the chain mesh curtains.

Order something rare by the glass or a cocktail built with gochujang hot honey, and finish with a creamy, crunchy dessert of wattleseed biscuits, peanut butter, banana in a Vietnamese coffee sauce.

Good to know: The $125 set menu gives a great account of the menu.

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