So many wine lists in wine country show fierce loyalty to local makers. But then there are those who go their own way. Take Yellow Billy, which is attached to Piggs Peake Winery, but makes a point of looking far, wide, weird and wonderful.

Sommelier Pat Hester may have moved on, but Sam Steadman has stepped in seamlessly: pick his pairing and he’ll do some improv, starting you on a Chartreuse, pineapple and Ardbeg cocktail, then offering three reds with mains, two as a match, one as a palate cleanser, from Georgia, Bendigo and Syria. Oof.

This is great eating, too, with fire-driven plates landing two-by-two: perhaps tartare alongside grilled octopus sharpened by preserved garden lemons; or smoked tamari-braised short-rib with Sichuan potato salad next to fried buttermilk spatchock, all crag and crunch.

Salads and vegetables are given admirable attention, too, adding up to an experience flush with refreshment, in more ways than one.

Good to know: The outside terrace is a breezy spot in the warmer months, with an open fire set to toasty for the winter.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.