If the wines aren’t enough to charm you at Where’s Nick, then the relaxed and unaffected manner of service at sure will. Staff keep things low-key, but will explain the difference between a cattarato and “cala Ìancu”, or a red from Tassie and another from Rioja with the best of them, then give you a steer to something eye-opening from the blackboard.

Drinks are the focus here, and the menu knows it, with a short suite of dishes primed to play support. Anchovy crostini oozing enticingly with preserved-lemon butter and blanketed in chives is a step-up from regular anchovy toast, and the ideal match for a glass of mineral-driven white.

Grilled octopus is set to sweep through aioli, while a special of confit trout hits a sweet spot between restaurant chic and homestyle comfort. What next? Let the wine guide you.

Good to know: Gun sommelier and Women and Revolution president Bridget Raffal is at the helm, and her picks also line the shelves at Goblin Wine Shop next door.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.