Buzz in at the unmarked door and descend into a low-lit cellar that whispers old-world opulence. Phones are suggestively confiscated and children are off the guest list. This is grown-up dining with no distractions.

Sink into a velvet booth and start with the glamorously retro prawn cocktail – heads fried crisp, Marie Rose sauce on the side – or take your waiter’s advice and share the justly hyped Gidley Burger.

Like its sister restaurant, Bistecca, red meat reigns, but here it’s all about Riverine Black Angus rib-eye. There are bone-in options, a bourbon glazed chop or the standout spinalis – a prized cut form the cap that’s hung for a few extra days after extended wet aging. Clean, tender and beef-forward, it’s a refreshing outlier in a city obsessed with marble scores and dry-aged funk.

Add a bottle of Burgundy, a side of darkly charred Brussels sprouts and settle in. This is steakhouse escapism.

Good to know: Reservations become available online 30 days in advance and fill up fast.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.