For three decades, The Cowrie has enjoyed a dress-circle location with expansive views over Terrigal and the sea. And under the ownership of chef Dimitris Aronis, who took over after the pandemic, the two dining rooms have been given an elegant facelift to go with a menu overhaul.

Local producers get a serious look in, but flavour and sound execution are the theme: see the oysters roasted over hot coals, all smoky and unctuous, or properly rendered duck breast paired with grilled radicchio and a few pickled cherries for a tangy-sweet hit.

The menu has that quaint habit of listing every ingredient, so there’s no chance of being mugged by a blast of unexpected ’nduja. What is a pleasant surprise is how broad the wine list is with some serious local, Italian and French bottles. Here’s to 30 more years.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.