Watch the hands. When sushi master Toshihiko Oe picks up a wad of rice and tamps it, his hands move in a series of rhythmic, traditional gestures that are as mesmerising as a magic act.

This is as special as omakase gets, from the delicate lobster sashimi to the shellfish-infused tamago omelette, and each of the 30 courses is crafted in front of you. There might be rich, oily mackerel with a smoky scorched skin; wild southern bluefin tuna, zebra-striped with fat, that tastes like meat from the ocean; and a lowly tuna collar cooked for hours into something luxurious.

It’s hard not to feel like you’re at an intimate dinner party with mates instead of perched at a modest pine counter, tucked discreetly into a corner of modern Japanese restaurant, Jizakana.

Bookings are tough (keep texting when reservations open each month), but the experience is genuine, generous and traditional without being formal.

Good to know: Arrive on time, or fellow guests will have to wait.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.