After 15 years in the business of fiery deliciousness, Spice Temple was under renovations when the Good Food Guide went to print last year. Mercifully, when it reopened, not too much had changed, except for more seats and a wine display wall that says “we’re really into riesling”.

The red-on-black colour scheme remains front and centre, and the cooking from chefs Andy Evans and Sehwa Kim is as vital as ever. Gnarly, numbing squiggles of twice-fried wagyu are spangled with sesame seeds; “hot, sweet and sour pork” is driven by black vinegar and the lip-tingling zest of Sichuan peppercorns; fish (maybe coral trout, maybe grouper) drowned in “heaven-facing” chilli oil practically vibrates with more Sichuan pepper.

A hotpot station in the ultra-plush dining room is also new, complete with a chef who will cook your steamboat to order. With scallops, bugs, squid, prawns and more, the seafood hotpot is incredible value, too.

Best for: Experiencing the flavour of fermented, fresh and dried chillies in close-up.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.