If you aren’t local to Harris Park, think of Shri Refreshment Bar not as the final destination, but a beginning. A takeaway perched on the corner of Wigram and Marion streets, with snacks sitting pretty under lights and basic furniture set up abutting a lane and a couple of parking spaces, it’s far removed from the comforts that many of the other restaurants in Sydney’s Little India offer.

There’s still time for the Mumbai street food at Chatkazz, the northern-style dishes at Not Just Curries, the syrupy desserts at Jaipur Sweets, but first: chaat. Vada pav, say, consisting of a fluffy bread roll stuffed with a crisp-fried spiced potato patty. Or samosa chaat, the golden pastry smashed to pieces and overloaded with chaana masala, yoghurt and chutneys. This is snack city, with good dhal, paratha and a pani puri stand to boot. How refreshing.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.