Sydney degustations often translate to expansive, flashy restaurants and harbour views, but this intimate 10-seater in a Darlinghurst backstreet is a heartfelt and personal expression of high-end dining.

Owner-chef Zachary Ng (Sepia’s head chef in the 2010s) greets you, recommends a cocktail he’s designed himself – “let me know what you think” – and artfully plates each dish on the Cantonese-influenced eight-course menu.

Vibrant, elegant plays on flavour and texture abound: reimagined ‘spring roll’ with scampi, scallop and prawn atop a crisp noodle cake; wonton puffs with rich chicken-liver parfait and Shaoxing jelly; tangles of fire-kissed Port Lincoln calamari, with umami oomph from squid ink and burnt shallot.

Charred, applewood-smoked slivers of wagyu marinated in cardamom and star anise, and a refreshing grape granita are further examples of Ng’s ingenuity and deft touch, as he gently steers you in the direction of the perfect drink match. Leave feeling the warmth of being welcomed, wined and dined.

Best for: An intimate chef’s-table experience.

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