If you haven’t been to Porteno for a while, here’s what you’ve missed: it’s now one of Sydney’s great steak restaurants. This stylish bistro started life on Cleveland Street in 2010 as a whole-beast Argentinian restaurant, and the Spanish and Latin American touches still shine brightly (see fabulous empanadas and house-made chorizo), even if they’re not roasting splayed pigs over a fire pit anymore, and the previously Malbec-heavy wine list has evolved into something more fun and far-reaching.

Instead, the big hunks of meat dry-ageing behind glass catch the eye: take out a line of credit, order the 28-day bone-in sirloin for $195 and you’ll be dreaming of it long after, promise. How else to fill the table? The famed fried Brussels sprouts with lentils and mint are still essential, and if you like blood sausage – which comes cleverly draped in pickled green tomatoes – this is the place to order it.

Good to know: There’s a banging bar menu and cocktails, including a very fine martini

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