This corner trattoria, its large front windows fitted handsomely with wooden venetian blinds, is proof that you can have a Big Night in a little place. While you can still spot who is there purely because Taylor Swift was, the dial has returned to “neighbourhood good times”.

A tiny kitchen overseen by Dan Pepperell does a great job of fritto misto, a golden tumble of prawn and curly calamari. Pasta is always a highlight, especially agnolotti filled with scallop in a velvety, tarragon-scented chicken broth.

You can sit up at the candle-lit bar, out on the street, or down in the Beppi’s-like cellar and go just as high or low with the menu. Mains are kept as simple as pan-fried veal saltimbocca in a lush sauce with the added crunch of fried sage leaves. No surprises with the tiramisu, either – it’s as good as it gets.

Must-order dish: Agnolotti alla capesante.

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