A new chef is working the stoves at this handsome winery restaurant, with views that stretch all the way to Gulaga mountain. Matteo Ponti applies his Piedmontese heritage and Singaporean training to a well-priced three-course menu (with an optional wine pairing from their own estate and around Australia) and blends Italy and Asia on the same plate with masterful balance.

You might begin with a cacciucco-style soup (a Tuscan classic), made with locally caught gurnard and Jervis Bay mussels, which gets a Keralan kick from Malabar spices and fried curry leaves.

Then move to Narooma octopus cooked to pliant perfection, and cavatelli sauced with a surprisingly harmonious mix of pesto and laksa. Mandarins growing outside the kitchen appear in a lively dessert alongside candied fennel and coconut yoghurt.

It’s clever cooking with a fresh perspective; giving the region the special-occasion destination it deserves.

Good to know: Mimosa has two peaceful cottages available to rent on the 200-acre property.

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