The Broken Back Range plays backdrop to vines, the organic garden groans: as far as cellar doors go, Margan’s is one of the most idyllic, and there’s plenty to be said for a visit to the tasting bench followed by a stint in the sunny courtyard with a charcuterie platter.

But then another way to get across Margan’s range of sustainably produced wines is at lunch, alongside a tasting menu that draws on the garden, orchard and olive groves.

They hit two out of three in an opening flurry of plates, with Ceres Hill olives landing alongside garden crudites to drag through sunflower-seed tahini. Pre-cut sourdough can dry out, but a cobia tartare sharpened with blood orange is all the better with homegrown baby cos leaves.

Mains play it safe, but using estate lambs is admirable, while creme caramel scented with Margan’s own off-sweet vermouth for dessert is a fortifying finish.

Good to know: For a small additional cost, guests have the opportunity to book a garden and winery tour before sitting down to lunch.

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