The keftedes nestled on tart tzatziki, the cool beauty of a glass of malagousia wine, the tattered straw lampshades, the whitewashed walls, the sparkle of nearby water – you could be in Greece. Or at least, a rough approximation.

The Kefi team have done an admirable job of recreating their inspiration, even if you really are at a marina on the Central Coast. The warmth of the welcome here takes you straight to a Greek taverna, as does a menu filled with Aegean favourites: those lamb keftedes, warming and pleasant; saganaki prawns, swimming in a hearty tomato sugo with pita to mop; and pastitsio, Greece’s answer to lasagne, made at Kefi with obvious care.

Service here can be patchy but it’s always well-meaning, and with a glass of wine and a view over Brisbane Water, any Greek-island pining can be momentarily sated.

Must-order dish: Saganaki prawns are rich and hearty.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.