What kind of restaurant has its own series of short films, graphic essays and set of $300 barbecue skewers? This restaurant.

Icebergs is as quintessentially Sydney as the Coathanger, property prices and sandy feet in summer. Outside is a scrum of sunbakers and active wearers. Inside a calm oasis, despite recent controversy around former director Maurice Terzini, who’s now left the business.

Sit back in the peaceful, blush-pink booths and soak up that absurdly stupendous ocean view. Better still alongside light and loose koshihikari rice risotto with rich XO sauce and sparkly scallop crudo, or gnarly charcoal-grey squid-ink calamari with aged balsamic and aioli.

Spaghetti vongole with Goolwa pipis and salty dried fish roe is classic seaside fare, while buttery wagyu bavette and sweet stone fruit-glazed short-rib in vermouth sauce will soothe the soul of any landlubber. How’s the serenity?

Good to know: Arrive early for a drink on the balcony at the bar

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.