When Hansuki opened it felt like exactly what Sydney was missing: an upscale shabu shabu restaurant, where diners could sate their appetite for platters of premium produce to swish through simmering broth. Who knew?

If it’s your first visit, staff make things easy: choose one of four broths from a handy printout – mushroom, say, or the delicate kombu-based signature – add a cartoonishly bountiful platter of vegetables, then add your “delicious plates”: a selection of wagyu, perhaps, featuring marbled chuck roll, sirloin and knuckle, or a mini seafood platter, with oyster, scallops and prawn paste, which cooks into dumplings in the simmering broth.

Ponzu and sesame sauces are on hand for dipping, and mochi kinchaku are an essential, bursting add-on. The space, dressed in wood and beaten copper, may be minimalist, but this is maximal enjoyment, made for sharing with sake and umeshu on hand, right through to the last swish.

Good to know: Still hungry? Ask a waiter to turn the last of your broth into zousui by adding rice and an egg to the cauldron.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.