In a city where Italian restaurants feel a bit copy-paste, Fontana continues to do its own thing with equal parts restraint and gusto. A chic, modest fit-out makes a strong case that fresh flowers and a nice banquette create just as much comfort as any $3 million renovation in the CBD, while Dan Johnston’s food traverses Italy depending on the season.

Hot and chewy rolls ooze with glorious caramelised garlic butter, and schie fritte (fried prawns) are lightly battered, resting on a bed of smooth polenta, the prawns bouncy and kicked up with citrus and chilli. Pesce (Murray cod) al limone is barely opaque and soft as silk; gnochetti con salsiccia is an unexpectedly spicy sausage affair tempered by lemon.

Co-owner Ivey Wawn’s infectiously warm hospitality extends to the rest of the outstanding floor crew, with the meal reaching a graceful and elegant coda via a creamy stracciatella gelato. Very Rome. Very Redfern. Very good.

Must order: Ricotta della casa, made fresh daily.

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