You’re going to wish you had Ezra on your street. Unless, that is, you actually live on Kellett Street in Potts Point, in which case you’re very lucky, because this is the ideal neighbourhood bistro, with cracking pan-Mediterranean cuisine and smartly chosen drinks.

Everyone else will just have to visit and dream. Begin that dream with a seat under dappled sunlight in the courtyard, where ikra – whipped cod roe, topped with baba ganoush and capers – pairs neatly with piping hot pita and a glass of Yangarra roussanne.

Call for more of that pita, too, from the unfailingly friendly waitstaff, to swipe up the leftovers of raw bluefin tuna with buttermilk and spring-onion oil. And then sit back to enjoy spatchcock with grapes and port wine reduction, a pleasant balance of sweetness and depth.

Though the playlist here is wild – Smashmouth, Christina Aguilera – the service is finely tuned, and the neighbourly vibe spot-on.

Must-order dish: Raw tuna with buttermilk is a smart execution of a commonly seen dish.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.