In a move that feels very on-trend, Promenade has made some small aesthetic changes, introduced a new menu and turned its handsome main dining room into a Greek restaurant, Etheus (Prom-Etheus, geddit?).

Much like the ocean view that rushes through the arched doorways, the food is breezy and easy, featuring best-ofs including creamy taramasalata, golden-from-the oven saganaki, flaky spanakopita, fall-from-the-bone lamb shoulder and warm bougatsa, groaning with custard.

Is playing the hits easy? Maybe, but Etheus gets the tempo right. Less classic, but essential are crunchy kataifi-wrapped prawns, Cyprus-style pork sausages cooked over charcoal and lemony spanakorizo, the spinach rice helping round out a satisfying feast.

Promenade is big (it also includes the more casual outdoor beach bar) so you might need to flag down a waiter to get their attention. But there are worse places to while away the time than this pretty room.

Good to know: If you want a table with a view of Bondi Beach, book The Verandah.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.