A moment, please, for the El Manara falafel – a mix of Ord River chickpeas, garlic and cumin, fried to order and available all day. Each falafel is crisp and crunchy, light and fluffy, and perfectly seasoned, just like they were when owner-chef Amir Sayah opened his restaurant in 1989.

Sayah prides himself on keeping everything just as it was back then, down to the electric-blue service counter that doubles as a drinks fridge, and the milk-bar style menu. Food comes delivered on huge, old-school wood veneer trays, and the mixed plate is a cornucopia of juicy grilled lamb and chicken skewers, hummus, tabouli, (very hot!) pickles, falafel, toum and pillowy bread.

Order a fattoush on the side for a little extra colour, or an ultra-comforting foul medames made with dried fava beans slow-cooked in extra virgin olive oil imported from Sayah’s hometown of Iaal in North Lebanon.

Good to know: There’s no booze or BYO, but there is a variety of Middle Eastern drinks including tamarind-flavoured Kazouza 1941 which tastes like Lebanese sarsaparilla.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.