Cottage Point sure is a beautiful place. Thick bush dramatically slopes into Cowan Creek as boats meander past, and the odd seaplane ushers diners from the CBD some 35 kilometres away. Unless you live near Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, it’s a journey to get here, but the setting’s glorious, and new chef John Lyons is pushing the menu in a drive-worthy direction.

It’s six or eight courses, and although he follows a well-trodden, produce-driven path – Cowra lamb, Humpty Doo barramundi, Monte Nardi cheese are all name checked – it doesn’t feel worn. Fremantle octopus flavoured with Davidson’s plum is thrilling, while Korean and Japanese flavours and techniques add another dimension: think ramen broth with lamb shank, soft-shell crab “schnitzel” with curry sauce, and scallops in the shell with perky poorman’s-orange dashi.

Staffing can be tough in such an isolated spot, but service is efficient and friendly. We’re excited to see Lyons build on this solid start.

Good to know: There’s a great far-reaching wine list with a decent selection of half bottles of wine, which works well if you’ve driven to get here.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.