One of the attractions of this Enmore Road icon is how seamlessly it blends into the surrounding streetscape. Cane and glass tables spill onto the pavement; a handful of locals wait on the corner for their takeaway kofta; the brick courtyard out back is one the best spots for lunch on a warm day.

Some people come for the juicy chicken drizzled with toum, others are here just for a stove-top coffee and the comforting, many-textured koshari. Falafel-filled pockets and mixed plates (vegan, vegetarian or assorted meat) are the mainstays, but a house special or three is worth your time, too.

Broad bean ful medames brightened with lemon, say, or hawawshi consisting of hot, spiced mince between sesame-spangled pastry. For dessert, meanwhile, umm ali is a bread pudding for all seasons.

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