Yes, that is Neil Perry at the bar with daughter Indy and a glass of red. And that’s no surprise, given the chef’s personal investment in revitalising Double Bay as a dining destination.

Cafe Margaret (formerly known as Next Door) is literally next door to his two-hatted Margaret, and Gran Torino is just up the road, but this feels like home base on Planet Perry. The cosy dining room hosts a lifetime of meals and memories. Macy’s Salad, named after another of his three daughters, is a simple spin on a classic Waldorf, with caramelly dates and Comte.

Better still are crumbed king prawns with chilli mayonnaise, and light-and-lovely pink snapper ceviche with lashings of lime, while the pattie in the famed cheeseburger is a globetrotting mix of Japanese Mishima and Hereford brisket.

Dessert brings it back home with a bourbon-laced sponge tribute to Perry and wife Sam’s own wedding cake. Here’s to happily ever after.

Good to know: You can order more sweet things from Margaret’s longer dessert menu.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.