Wondering where chef Alejandro Huerta landed after Comedor shut up shop? Find him cooking alongside his partner Galia Valadez at Blackheath’s Kyah Hotel.

Book a table close to one of the many fires heating the room during winter, or a seat on the enclosed balcony once it warms up. Or perch at the bar with a round of hash browns topped with whipped ’nduja.

The spicy Calabrian pork paste works surprisingly well with a palo santo-infused whisky cocktail. A grilled Skull Island prawn resting on a fresh tortilla dressed with mussel cream brings some heavy sea funk to the table.

There are bigger wins on the menu, such as juicy fried chicken on a slick of warrigal-green curry sauce, lifted with thinly sliced pickled jicama and cucumber. See also the beautifully silken banana and corn cake topped with fresh gooseberries, and the deep-south-style fried pie, filled with local apples and drizzled with dulce de leche.

Good to know: Make a weekend of it and explore the area’s stunning hikes.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.