What, exactly, constitutes this country’s national cuisine? It’s a question that’s long been a focus between the sandstone foundations and louvre windows at Berowra Waters Inn, and the increased use of native ingredients over the past year finds the kitchen delving deeper.

Is there a crudo out there quite like this, with rosella petals bringing piercing tartness to neatly sliced snapper in marigold vinegar? Does any dish do the Hawkesbury justice quite like hibachi-crisped local mulloway, joined by celeriac, crunchy ice plant and a briny veloute of oysters from the same brackish waters? That signature bunya-nut miso custard with mud crab, meanwhile, remains as rapturous as ever.

This is ambitious degustation dining that keenly embraces native flavours and outside-the-box ideas, backed by conscientious sourcing, invested service and an on-the-pulse list of exclusively home-grown drinks.

Good to know: Transfers are offered to several houseboats on the river, so make a night of it.

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