A tiny wedge of bricks, mortar and glass that aims its narrowest point towards Taylor Square North, Avia is in the hands of two young hospitality professionals who are giving neighbourhood dining a red-hot go. They met years ago at Potts Point’s perpetually packed The Apollo, where Stefano Marano was head chef, and Jack Reid was front-of-house.

The menu at Avia, which is Latin for grandmother, has been shaped by the cooking and the sense of hospitality passed on by Marano’s Neapolitan grandmother. Focaccia, pasta, vinegars, sausages are all made from scratch. Rich, eggy rose geranium tart is based on milk and cream infused with leaves Marano picked that morning.

It’s not rough-hewn though. Beef tartare is seasoned with garum under foaming parmesan dressing. Bottoni are fine cushions of pasta filled with salt cod and potato. And house-made sausage is a must. There’s a gently humility here, with plenty to uncover if you look.

Good to know: Summery cocktails, two Italian beers, and a short, well-judged list of Euro-Med labels make drinking here a pleasure too.

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