This tiny space of polished concrete and stained timbers is all about regional Japanese cooking, artisan sake, umeshu and shochu. Not quite across the intricacies of Japanese booze? No worries. The drinks list offers detailed descriptions, and staff are happy to recommend the right umami-focused junmai for grilled oysters thumping with brown-butter ponzu, say, or charcoal-kissed green-lip abalone skewers.

Meaty king oyster mushrooms in dashi butter taste more than a little like cacio e pepe, and a fillet coral trout is simmered in soy sauce and mirin, nitsuke-style, for a deft example of fish cookery. Torched salmon, meanwhile, tops the ochazuke – a toasty rice dish enhanced by pouring barley tea over the cooked grains. Coffee jelly to finish is the right idea, balancing sweetness and salt and perfect for a little Japanese whisky nightcap.

Good to know: After opening with a no-reservations policy, Amuro mercifully now takes bookings.

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