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Bistro Gitan

Gallic classics get New World updates.

Steak frites at Bistro Gitan.
1 / 7Steak frites at Bistro Gitan.Supplied
Inside Bistro Gitan.
2 / 7Inside Bistro Gitan.Dasha Kud
Pumpkin Parisian gnocchi.
3 / 7Pumpkin Parisian gnocchi.Luis Enrique Ascui
Croque monsieur.
4 / 7Croque monsieur.Anu Kumar
 Kingfish tartare with nori rice crisp.
5 / 7 Kingfish tartare with nori rice crisp.Luis Enrique Ascui
Classics with confident twists.
6 / 7Classics with confident twists.Supplied.
Salade de chevre chaud.
7 / 7Salade de chevre chaud.Luis Enrique Ascui

Bistro Gitan

French$$

In some ways this corner bistro is French to its fingertips, from the warmed slices of good baguette to the final spoonful of crackle-topped nectarine creme brulee.

Unsurprising, since it’s an enterprise by the offspring of legendary chef Jacques Reymond. In other ways though, it’s as Australian as the Reymond siblings themselves.

The high-ceilinged room is a former pub, now with iron chandelier, herringbone parquetry and paper-topped tables, and the menu is dotted with multicultural influences. Chilled sweetcorn custard comes with lime leaf and crab, battered red snapper teams up with zesty chermoula, and manchego lends necessary savoury depth to a mildly flavoured arrangement of zucchini and squash.

Some concepts are stronger on paper than on the plate but the exceptional choice of wines from around the world, poured at the table with warmth and flair, is a constant.

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